Food, flamenco and the spectacular Alhambra in 48 hours
The first paradox of tourism is that nobody wants to feel like a tourist. Even as we queue among crowds of other tourists at the world’s most beautiful spots, we all want to feel that we’ve somehow discovered something that not everybody knows about. Another paradox is that guidebooks recommend places on the basis that they’re authentic places where locals go – leading, of course, of course to these lovely places being invaded by tourists and so losing the atmosphere that gave them their appeal in the first place. C’est la vie, perhaps. So when I meet Ismael Harb Vera, author of Locally Slow: A local opinionated guide to Granada, I’m wondering if he’s really thought it through. His beautifully designed book with its lovely photography is a guide to all his favourite places in the city where he grew up and currently lives, and for which he has a huge passion. Isn’t he worried that he’s on a path to destroy the thing he loves?
But of course, tourism’s not new to Granada. In fact you could credit tourism for rescuing the wonderful Alhambra from dereliction after American visitor Washington Irving brought it to the attention of the world in the early 19th century. But we’ll come back to that. We’re very lucky to be introduced to Ismael by an old friend of his, who is manager of Palacio Gran Via, the hotel where we’re staying. It’s one of only a handful of five star hotels in Granada, located in the centre of town in a former bank headquarters that was itself formerly a grand residence. It’s an intimate and stylish place, its main claim to fame being a spectacular rooftop with wonderful views over Granada and its famed Alhambra (and almost just as wonderful Aperol cocktails made with local sherry). And despite the fact that it belongs to a large Spanish hotel group (Royal Hideaway is the luxury wing of the Barcelo group), it feels small and personal thanks in part to the staff, who are all massive Granada enthusiasts, many of them having grown up locally. So that’s how we find ourselves being shown around by the manager’s friend Ismael.
The Alhambra
Of course, the city’s most famous attraction is the Alhambra, and most people visiting for the weekend will at least try and enter the spectacular Moorish fort. I say try, because visitor numbers are restricted and buying tickets in advance is essential, as people often discover too late. Happily, Alhambra tickets are something that Palacio Gran Via will arrange for guests on booking – and for us they have arranged an excellent guide too. Anna walks us through the sprawling site and tells us in detail about each palace, explaining why the interior is much more ornate than the exterior (in Islam, nobody wants to make their neighbours envious) and how much maths and numerology is involved in the amazing engineering.
Built primarily in the 13th and 14th centuries, the Alhambra is a masterpiece of Islamic architecture. The complex includes royal palaces, serene courtyards, lush gardens, and defensive walls, all intricately decorated with calligraphy, stucco work, and tile mosaics. Notable features include the Court of the Lions, the Hall of the Ambassadors, and the Generalife gardens. After the Christian Reconquista in 1492, the Alhambra was altered and repurposed, blending Islamic and Renaissance elements. Today, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Spain’s most visited landmarks, celebrated for its historical significance, architectural beauty, and the unique synthesis of Moorish and European styles. It’s an unforgettable place, mindblowing even, and everyone in Granada excitedly tells us about the important role played by the American traveller Washington Irving who happened upon the Alhambra while travelling through Andalusia and found an abandoned ruin, inhabited by homeless people and gypsies, along with bats and owls. His 1832 book Tales of the Alhambra is a colourful account of the palace and its inhabitants, and although its historical accuracy is disputed, it was the book’s publication that inspired the Spanish government to focus on restoring the abandoned site.
But there’s more to Granada than the Alhambra, even if admiring views of it from all angles is a big feature of the city. A thriving gypsy community has lived in the Sacromonte district since the 15th century and much of the area’s housing is made up of cave homes built into the cliff. We come to authentic cave bar Cueva Los Amayas for a Flamenco show, and with no music other than a single guitar and lots of clapping, we’re treated to an intense and intimate evening of heightened emotion and energy.
Food is a big draw in Granada; we visit one of Ismael’s recommended eateries, La Tana, located slightly beyond the main tourist strip, and it’s here that we eat possibly the most delicious tomatoes we’ve ever had. They don’t even look that promising: they’re huge, pale and bulgy, but the bite is perfect and the flavour is amazing. We also love the selection of cured meats and white sausage, and an unlikely salad of salt cod, orange, egg and olive. Yes that’s right. It’s a local speciality, remojon granadino. We’re warned that we probably won’t like it, and it certainly promises a meal of desperate cupboard ingredients, but we all agree that the flavours work perfectly together. Along with several glasses of a local red wine, this is a fantastic meal. Much less rustic is the menu back at the hotel, where we enjoy a lavish multi-course tasting menu at El Patio, and also an in-depth sommelier tea ceremony. Thank you Ismael, and thank you Granada.
Rooms at Palacio Gran Via start at 350€ per night during low season
