Lavish decorations and an exuberant vibe as Sketch comes of age
Celebrating 21 Years of Sketch
At a glance:
FOOD
A comfort menu of favourites
DECOR
Fantasy-infused with sparkle and magic
PRICE
Main dishes £20-£28
VERDICT
Still winning after all these years
Sketch has just celebrated its 21st birthday, a coming of age in Counduit Street that perhaps wouldn’t have been predicted when it first opened in 2003. Who would have thought that the sprawling townhouse that used to pride itself in changing its decor every week would grow up? But now this serious eaterie is one of just a handful of London restaurants to hold three Michelin stars. And, of course, it’s home to the West End’s (and possibly Instagram’s) most famous loos, which are worth a visit for their spaceship surrealism alone.
We’ve come just before Christmas and the decorations are as lavish as you’d imagine: a vast gingerbread house in the famous loos, a rotating crystal tree in the Library and an actual Sugar Plum Fairy dancing in the hall. (Christmas continues until 6 January here, so there’s still time).
We’re here for lunch at the Glade, described as “an artwork in decoupage; a landscape forest inspired by a 1900’s greeting card”. It’s a magical space, like stepping into an enchanted forest, with the sense that there are sprites and fairies dancing in the shadows.
In the evenings the Glade is all about cocktails, but during the day there’s breakfast and lunch, and the menu is dubbed “comfort”. It’s a small list of bar-type options including a club sandwich and a burger as well as beef bourguignons and cassoulet, a less formal selection than in the neighbouring famed pink Gallery.
To start we have sweetcorn soup with popcorn, a sweet and creamy dish with a large dose of comfort, and a beetroot and goats cheese salad. Bavette steak is high class and equally comforting, while my halibut with parsnip puree is deliciously sleek and soft. Truffle parmesan fries continue the comfort theme, as do large chilled glasses of Sancerre.
For pudding we share a festive slice of Yule Log, which is laced with hazelnut butter and lashings of chocolate. The Sugar Plum Fairy comes pirouetting in while we eat, adding to the magical atmosphere and we’re feeling pretty special ourselves by the time we’re finished. Thank you Sketch, and happy birthday.
Location: 9 Conduit Street, W1
