Ladbroke Hall’s Elegant Transformation
The Grade II listed Ladbroke Hall reopened last year as an arts centre after its previous incarnation as Sunbeam Studios. It’s a beautiful space, evoking a grand Edwardian country house, and was once the front building of a car factory.
Emanuele Pollini’s London Debut
Italian chef Emanuele Pollini, the 2020 Gambero Rosso International Award winner, has opened a stylish eaterie here, his first residence in London. It’s a slightly unlikely location for anyone not local – you wouldn’t know that there was anything inside if not for the discreet presence of a doorman.
But inside, it’s breathtaking. Everything is vast: a huge atrium with high stuccoed ceilings, lots of marble, and a huge branch-like feature chandelier above a central black bar. We sit at luxe velvet banquettes at a large table for two and admire the staff uniforms: they’re in boiler suits that reference the factory heritage, but designed by Giles Deacon, so they’re a cut above simple utility.
A Gastronomic Adventure Begins
The food is fantastic. First off, sourdough and focaccia have excellent flavour and texture. My starter of raw yellowtail with cold pressed tomato yuzu kosho dressing is dreamily fresh and delicate with a slight chili kick, while tagliatelle with wild boar ragu is rich, meaty, and flavourful.
Main Courses That Impress
Second, my Cornish monkfish with clams and Datterini tomatoes, poached in Gavi di Gavi, is soft and sweet, almost lobsterish, with notes of lemon and chili.
Specialty Desserts to Die For
It’s lovely. And so is the saddle of roe deer with chanterelles, artichoke, and savoy cabbage, which is a generous plate featuring impossibly tender meat that tastes slightly chocolatey in a luxurious, velvety way. For pudding, there’s a big focus on gelato, Pollini’s specialty. We tried the Sicilian pistachio version, which is wonderful. Nutty and not too sweet – nor too green – it’s topped with roasted pistachios, and a small scoop packs a big punch. Also good is Squacquerone, a creamy cow’s cheese served with caramelised figs. We love everything about this place.
Visit POLLINI at 79 Barlby Road, W10, and experience Chef Emanuele Pollini’s culinary artistry.
For more details, head to ladbrokehall.com
