York’s popular Fish&Forest is heading to a new site, offering more space and the prospect of additional dishes. Chef Stephen Andrews explains why the stars have aligned for the perfect move.
The Big Move
Fish&Forest, based in Micklegate in York, has confirmed a new location in 2024. The popular restaurant, founded by Chef Stephen Andrews, will be moving to Grape Lane, York, increasing covers by fifty percent.
A Journey of Growth
Fish&Forest launched as a pop-up concept in 2018 and opened its doors at Spark York in 2020 before moving to the current site on Micklegate. The restaurant has gained attention within the food scene after being recognized in the Michelin Guide for its Commitment to Sustainable Gastronomy, being recently listed on Harden’s, as well as receiving an AA Rosette.
Sustainable and Seasonal Menu
The restaurant serves seasonal and sustainable seafood and game. Crab comes directly from the fishermen in Whitby, oysters from Lindisfarne, and game from small local farms and estates. Huge attention is paid to using seasonal herbs and vegetables, foraged from the local countryside. This approach means that the ever-changing menu always features a vegan offer too.
Stephen Andrews: The Self-Taught Chef
Yorkshireman Stephen is a self-taught chef who has worked and trained in Australia and Canada. His background includes working at a bistro in Sydney focused on sustainability and zero-waste, elements he has brought into the Fish&Forest offering.
The Move to Grape Lane
The move to Grape Lane is scheduled for this summer, so Absolutely sat down with the chef to discover more.
Why Now?
“I think with most things, it’s never the right time, but you can’t turn down a great opportunity. When moving into Micklegate with Fish&Forest, the country had just gone into its first lockdown, for example. Now, with the relocation to Grape Lane, an iconic spot in the centre of town, you can’t pass that up. It also felt right for us at Fish&Forest; we were almost outgrowing the building at Micklegate.” — Stephen Andrews
Why Grape Lane?
“My parents own the property (Thirteen Thirty One), and they were thinking of closing up and taking a step back from the chaos of hospitality. Growing up there, learning every section starting from the cellar and settling finally in the kitchen, it means a lot to then have my own business that I created in the building which started my career.” — Stephen Andrews
Current Status
“We haven’t yet moved to Grape Lane, but the premises in Micklegate have been transformed into Notes Wine Bar, and it is going really well so far. A few creases still to iron out, but we’ve received fantastic feedback from customers and are keeping busy. It’s something we’ve wanted to do for a while, especially in the location as there are some great independent restaurants and cafes where a wine bar compliments nicely.” — Stephen Andrews
What’s New?
“Once we move into Grape Lane, we will have a menu with eight starters this time. Still four mains and four desserts, but this way the customers can dine the way they’d like, whether it’s small plates or your classic à la carte.” — Stephen Andrews
Ambitions and Ideals
“I’ve always had high expectations about what Fish&Forest could achieve. Moving into a bigger venue means we have the capacity to refine our skills, remain detail-oriented, and focus on our sustainability and no-waste ideals. We want to use the extra space for curing and fermenting so we don’t have food waste. We then want to use those cures for both Fish&Forest and Notes, so again nothing is leftover.” — Stephen Andrews
Yorkshire Produce
“Our menu is decided based on the fruit and vegetables we can source locally. Most people laugh when I say that, but we want to highlight what we can do with such great produce. Our focus is on simple things done well and it speaks volumes. Protein is decided last usually as it depends on what we can get in on the day – it keeps us on our toes as well as having to be creative.” — Stephen Andrews
Summer Menu Highlights
“Fresh, vibrant, punchy, lively, but most importantly ‘Steved’.” — Stephen Andrews
Favorite Dish
“We love using the indoor konro BBQ for cooking our fish. For example, we’ve had plaice with a grenobloise style sauce (been ‘Steved’ of course), and then we get some local gooseberries, and it’s just summer on a plate.” — Stephen Andrews
Future Ambitions
“We want to be one of the best restaurants in York, and we aim to be one percent better every day, which keeps us level and looking ahead. We are lucky enough to have regulars who support us every step of the way, so we are always thankful for our customers. The long-term goal, which we know would be hard work, is to achieve a green star in the future.” — Stephen Andrews
For more information, visit the Fish&Forest Restaurant website.
