José Pizarro on coming to London in the 90s, the Bermondsey community and what we can expect from new opening, Lolo
Did you catch the cooking bug at a young age?
Well that’s a good question. Yes and no. From a young age I always loved food, especially my mum’s cooking, but she never used to let me in the kitchen. The real cooking bug came when I moved out and started my first job. I no longer had my mother around to cook for me, so I had to pick up the knives and teach myself. From this point I realised I had a serious passion for food, so I finished my studies as a dentistry technician and started a cookery course.
What foodie experiences do you recall growing up?
Fresh, high-quality ingredients and traditional family recipes. Growing up on a farm, I was surrounded by the freshest and finest ingredients – especially the best milk and cheeses – which I’d say deeply influenced my foodie experiences. I developed a deep appreciation for good quality and quite simply fresh ingredients. As children we absorb these things, like a sponge, and it’s something I instil in my cooking to this day.
When did you first seriously consider a career in cooking?
It was completely unplanned, I would never say there was a eureka moment or that it was even a decision. Everything just fell into place. I needed to cook for myself, I loved it, I started a course and it’s been an adventure ever since.
Why did you initially decide to come to London?
I initially decided to come to London in 1998 for a few reasons. I wanted to learn English, but mainly it was to understand and learn different cooking styles, cuisines and techniques.
How different was the foodie scene when you first started here?
The London foodie scene has always been great. When I first moved to London back in the 90s, though, it was a lot simpler and inexpensive. We had authenticity at our disposal – the best Chinese, Japanese, Indian, you name it. It’s completely different now, but I love London then and now.
How do you look back on opening José on Bermondsey Street in 2011?
I look back with such fond and great memories. In 2011, I was living around the area, and it was pure chance I stumbled upon the site. José on Bermondsey Street is my little baby – 13 and a half years later, and it’s still going strong.
Have you evolved as a chef since then?
Yes, I have definitely evolved significantly as a chef since then. Opening José on Bermondsey Street gave me the confidence to venture into further creativity, experimenting with different techniques and flavour profiles. Across all of my restaurants, there is an element of tradition rooted into the food, but with a touch of innovation. There’s always been one consistent thing, high-quality ingredients whilst ensuring each dish is crafted with love, precision and creativity.
To the present day and Bermondsey Street is also home to your new concept, Lolo. What do you love about this area to open here?
In all honesty in the beginning Bermondsey was the only area I could afford. But as the years have gone on, my love for the area has grown. What I love most is the community – the neighbours are amazing, my customers feel like friends and there’s a sense of being.
How will Lolo be different to what you have offered before?
Lolo is really the food I love to eat and cook myself, and emulates the joy that I personally experience from preparing my favourite dishes at home. Lolo in itself is a whole new all-day dining concept; the restaurant is not simply Spanish, rather we use trusted suppliers across the UK, reflecting my love for both nations alike. It’s a fresh approach and definitely a place that was missing on Bermondsey Street.
How are you promoting the communal aspect of dining together?
I think dining together is a wonderful way to bring people closer, sharing a meal fosters connection and community. Lolo doesn’t feature communal or sharing tables, rather it’s the cosy setting and sense of togetherness that creates an environment that encourages guests to interact and enjoy the experience together. It’s a place for gathering all day.
How have you approached the menus?
Lolo for me is a place for evolution, a working coffee, and a lovely salad. The menu is really what I like to eat.
Are there particular dishes on the menus that you are loving right now?
Definitely devilled eggs – they are amazing! When you visit Lolo the devilled egg with anchovies and sobrasada is not to be missed. Oh, and of course, the cod, which is inspired by my mum’s family recipe.
What can you tell us about the design of Lolo?
Lolo has been designed by Karen Taylor from Pattern-Haus; and I’d say compared to my other sites, it’s definitely more tranquil. I’m usually told by everyone that all my other places are nice but very busy, with
both people and design! So, I decided I wanted a more relaxed atmosphere, stripped back and quieter. Once the doors open I don’t think it’s going to be quiet, well I hope not, but definitely more relaxed.
What experience do you hope to offer with Lolo?
I just want people to be together, gathering all day, and I hope some people can have breakfast in Lolo, lunch in José and dinner in Pizarro. That’s the dream.
LOLO, 102 Bermondsey Street, SE1 3UB
josepizarro.com/venues/lolo
