Revisiting a Clapham classic – a stairway to contemporary dining
Words Elysia Agnew
Trinity has accommodated Clapham’s fine diners for almost a decade, but make your way Upstairs and the white-tablecloth approach is turned on its head.
Trinity Upstairs is a new concept restaurant, complete with communal wooden benches, a contemporary wine cellar and an open grill hissing away as the food is made to order. Upstairs defies everything traditional about the restaurant below, but there is definitely no compromise on Adam Byatt’s concept cooking.
We were seated in the ‘hot seats’ right by the chef’s table. Food was prepared in front of us as the waiter discussed the flavours. We went for a bottle of incredibly refreshing white wine. It was described to us as ‘a fun wine – nothing too serious’; an easy-going zippy blend of citrus fruits. It went down perfectly as our dishes were brought out in tapas-style.
The menu incorporates simple but carefully selected British-European cuisine. My personal favourites were monk’s beard, venison bolognese fritters and an endive and apple salad which was brought out to us by the chef as we chatted about the restaurant’s concept.
The food was delicious, and the flavours impeccable. Watching as the chef prepared, we couldn’t resist something sweet to finish. The chocolate cermosa; a sensational combination of sweet chocolate and perfectly balanced salted caramel ice cream.
The chef changes the menu daily, meaning Upstairs is the perfect spot to return to for dinner. A slick and stylish dining space. It’s quite simply a stairway to heaven; and it is certainly worth the climb.
4 The Polygon, SW4
020 7622 1199; trinityrestaurant.co.uk