The glamorous Art Deco dining room has a new look and an excellent menu
Is lunch at Claridge’s one of the best treats that London has to offer? Especially when it’s lunch in December –and particularly when the restaurant has just had a stylish new refurb. This is probably one of the world’s most beautiful dining rooms, its Art Deco interior enhanced by references to 1930s Austrian
brasserie design in a new incarnation from the Bryan O’Sullivan Studio. Claridge’s is known for its Art Deco heritage, but also for its enthusiasm for new design and reinvention, so this is a new look that feels like an authentic old one. It’s all mirrors and glass wall lights, comfortable leather banquettes and beautiful stained glass skylights (these were rescued from a previous incarnation). And because it’s December, there are huge gold-sprayed hydrangeas and a central tree (not a fir) draped in tasteful
baubles (contrasting with the conceptual and much more garish Louis Vuitton mirrored tree in the lobby).
It’s a well-crafted menu, both classic and contemporary, with festive options. We start with black truffle buckwheat crumpets, which are unusual and lovely, topped prettily with curly slivers of truffle. Starters of baby beetroot salad and confit aubergine are equally pretty and excellent: aubergine sweet and smoky, beets fresh and bright. The kitchen has a good visual sense that’s not fussy, and a main of sea bass with fragrant saffron foam is simple and stylish. My roast Norfolk Bronze turkey promises all the trimmings and delivers them without the usual plate overload: this is an elegant Christmas lunch. A slightly blackened carrot and single parsnip, perfect sprouts and roast potatoes, neat slices of meat and a small roundel of stuffing.
Puddings are spectacular. Pineapple vacherin with coconut and coriander is a chewy meringue swirl with
herb-infused pineapple curls that’s impossibly delicious, and roasted saffron apple comes with smoked
creme fraiche and a side of cider granita as a clever, multi-textured creation. Staff are lovely, service
is impeccable and the sommelier’s wine recommendation wonderful.
It’s definitely the best treat.
FOOD
High class dishes, beautifully served
DECOR
Art Deco glamour and comfort
PRICE
Of course, not cheap.
Main courses
£38 – £98
VERDICT
Definitely one of London’s finest.
