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Food Review: Lupins, Flat Iron Square


Absolutely discovers British food with a splash of sunshine at Lupins, Flat Iron Square’s chic new gastronomical offering 

Words Hannah Hopkins


Named after the English garden flower, Lupins is a friendly and informal new neighbourhood opening in Flat Iron Square – the go-to place for hungry Londoners. Made up of seven railway arches and Grade II listed Devonshire House, the area is a melting pot of food vendors, restaurants, street food, bars, live music and entertainment. A perfect choice then, for a vibrant and exciting new venture.

Lucy Pedder and Natasha Cooke are the brains behind it. They met working in the kitchen at Medlar in Chelsea and have worked together ever since, running a successful bespoke catering and pop-up restaurant company ‘The Cooking Collective’. Capitalising on their love of true seasonal British ingredients, the two talented chefs decided to open Lupins – infusing those British ingredients with global flavours. Cleverly, Lupin seeds are a snack in the Mediterranean and Latin America, so the name also reflects their sunshiny menu.

Instagram fans will find plenty to snap inside the restaurant, which is designed and overseen by architects Goldstein Ween. Modern, simple and effective, expect to see the rustic exposed brickwork of the feature railway arch wall, light wood panelling and a colour scheme of dusky pinks, sage greens and mustard yellows. Warm and inviting, we loved the rose gold font used on the menus and the poems decorating the walls.

As for the food, the menu is a wonderfully imaginative range of small plates and snacks. Standout snacks includes sumac lamb scrumpets and pomegranate molasses, cornmeal fried spring onions with smoked chilli aioli. The small plates collection includes dishes such as polenta crusted anchovies with a wild garlic and onion salad, sea trout, cucumber and seaweed butter, chipotle roast pigeon with charred baby gem and carrot and Spiced beef short rib with purple sprouting broccoli. To finish off the meal, we recommend a plate of Neal’s Yard cheeses, or the rhubarb with ginger, vanilla yoghurt and shortbread.

For drinks choose from the range of quirky and well-priced wines (there are natural, organic and biodynamic available) or opt for the monthly cocktail. There are even beers served in 360° cans, definitely worth a try. With a dining space and a menu that is small but perfectly formed, Lupins really is full of surprises.

66-68 Union Street, SE1; 02036178819

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