Absolutely Magazine chats with Roy Ner, the talented chef behind Berkeley Street’s Jeru, about his Australian background and how it has influenced his cooking in London.
Early Influences and Passion for Cooking
Were you surrounded by good food growing up?
Roy Ner: Yes! Food was always a central focus for our family when it came to getting together.
When did you first develop an interest in cooking yourself?
Roy Ner: My grandma Camila was renowned for her cooking skills within our family. I have fond memories of spending time with her and assisting her in preparing her legendary Moroccan feasts.
What was your first professional job, and how do you look back on it?
Roy Ner: In the mid-90s, I worked for an upscale catering company that charged between $250 and $300 per person for food only. They specialized in classic dishes, and I was really captivated by the challenge of learning how to prepare and cook for large events with 150 guests or more.
Comparing Culinary Landscapes
How does the food industry in London compare to where you developed in Australia?
Roy Ner: Australia features a unique culinary landscape, blending European cuisine with strong Asian influences. As a relatively young food nation, fusion cuisine is widespread and deeply ingrained in the mainstream food scene. On the other hand, London seems to maintain a closer connection to the origins of different culinary traditions, allowing them to gradually evolve and fuse together into a diverse array of cuisines.
Development of a Unique Cooking Style
Would you say you developed a particular cooking style in Australia?
Roy Ner: Yes, definitely. I had my first experience working at a hatted (Michelin-starred) restaurant, which was ARIA in Sydney. It is known for its Modern Australian cuisine, which essentially involves using French cooking techniques combined with Asian influences and utilizing Australian produce to create dishes packed with flavor. I took a similar approach when preparing Mediterranean food, incorporating French and Asian cooking techniques while also infusing it with the umami flavors of Moroccan and North African cuisine.
Bringing Innovation to London
What enticed you over to London?
Roy Ner: I was excited to introduce my innovative take on Mediterranean cuisine, featuring a unique cooking style that sets us apart in a new stage.
What did you want Jeru to offer from day one?
Roy Ner: I wanted Jeru to offer an inviting environment where individuals can enjoy a wide array of high-quality cuisine at a reasonable price, reminiscent of warm and welcoming meals similar to my favorite memories from childhood. Jeru is located on Mayfair’s Berkeley Street, and it stands out as one of the more friendly and approachable offerings.
Overcoming Challenges and Embracing New Ideas
You opened at a time when hospitality was being hit by Covid. Did you have some hurdles to overcome initially?
Roy Ner: What a special journey! Despite the uphill battle from day one, I’ve made significant progress. Usually, it takes about 3-4 months to settle into a new opening; opening Jeru during this time just took a bit longer than that. But now I’m very happy with our team and the venue’s culture.
Why did you want to have an open kitchen?
Roy Ner: We want to convey that we have nothing to hide and that we are always here to show and be approachable.
Has developing the additional private dining spaces been a labor of love?
Roy Ner: Adding the private dining option added another operational element for us. It also allowed us to do more share-style menus, which I love.
Exciting Menu Innovations
What can you tell us about the menu we can experience over the summer?
Roy Ner: We have just launched the Fish Market, a project of special significance for me. I am enthusiastic about it because it allows me to delve into the world of light and fresh flavors and exhibit a diverse range of fish techniques and butchery.
Are there a couple of dishes that you are particularly loving right now?
Roy Ner: Currently, I am absolutely fascinated by our dry-aged vegetables program. I get to experiment with a variety of vegetables, including beetroot, celeriac, and pumpkin. After roasting or pickling them, I apply our special spice mixes and let the vegetables sit in the dry-aging fridge for 5-7 days. This process results in a remarkable transformation, as the vegetables develop an entirely new flavor profile and a delightful firm texture.
Are you constantly experimenting with flavors and combinations?
Roy Ner: I love experimenting with cooking and try to come up with 2-3 new dishes every week. I also sell small amounts of specials. I think it’s important to keep the mind engaged and to be creative in the kitchen. Some dishes make it to the menu, and sometimes we enjoy eating them with the team.
Looking Ahead
What are you looking forward to over the coming months?
Roy Ner: I’ve got a couple of cooking collaborations with some chefs that I really love and respect. I can’t wait to share; this is something I truly enjoy doing.
Discover more about Jeru and explore their menu at jeru.co.uk.
